I though you would be interested in seeing a few photographs of my meat rabbit kits throughout the past month-and-a-half. We all could use a break to look at adorable bunnies, couldn't we?

No the brown one is not a "wild" rabbit, although he does look like one, doesn't he?


Unfortunately, although the photos were in order by date, they have since been scrambled. They're still cute, though.

Rabbit Dental Care

Although our sick buck doesn't have elongated, or even misaligned teeth, he does have a damaged tooth, which, although unpreventable(in this case), could have been found more quickly and removed, improving his quality of life. Therefore, I would like to take today to help others prevent this problem and others, by giving tips on preventative rabbit dental care. I believe in the case of our buck, it was simply improper utilization of calcium, as his claws are also weak, that has created this mess, possibly caused by his advanced age. He is a five year old Silver Fox rabbit, and I am told it is rare for them to live beyond the age of three.

1. Greens, greens, greens! They contain fiber which is vital for a rabbit's health and "chew" which is vital for keeping their teeth filed down. Be sure, if your rabbit has not eaten greens recently or you don't know what they have eaten in the past, to introduce them SLOWLY so their bodies can adjust to the new food. Rabbits need time to develop the proper enzymes for digesting a certain food. Introduce any and all new foods one at a time and watch closely for allergic reactions. Allergies to new foods can be as fatal in rabbits as people. As always, always be absolutely certain of what you are giving as well. Make SURE you know what it is and if it's safe for rabbits. If you know for sure, check again. I have a neighbor who gives his rabbits what he claims to be one thing and I know for a fact it is not. I looked it up. Do not rely on what you knew when you were growing up. The people who introduced you to an item could be erring. Get your knowledge from an expert at all times.
2. Apple branches-help file down teeth, the wider the better. Watch them, though, because your rabbit WILL chew off the bark and leave the rest. That is when it is time for a new branch!
3. Carrot tops and other high-calcium snacks-should be used in moderation unless you know for a fact your rabbit is lacking in calcium. There is such a thing as too much of a good thing, especially with rabbits!
4. Watch your rabbit - a change in eating habits, including chewing objects that aren't usually on his menu may indicate discomfort. Especially if he suddenly decides to chew smaller, softer food items.
5. Have your rabbit examined regularly-if we hadn't examined this buck, he would have surely died of starvation. We didn't know what was going on. Luckily, I decided to check his mouth. It is my personal opinion a split tooth is cause to visit the veterinarian immediately. My associate disagrees. Personally, I do believe a great number of ailments can be treated naturally at home without surgery, but I don't believe this is one of them.

I hope, using these tips, that you never have the problems I am and that your rabbit never suffers. If you do, however, please do not hesitate to take your rabbit to the veterinarian if at all possible. Your rabbit need not suffer nor does it need to be killed. Tooth extractions are fairly commonplace and rabbits often go on to live long, healthy lives afterword. I don't recommend BREEDING a rabbit with a lot of dental problems, but they can be have wonderful lives as somebody's pets.

Our injured buck isn't injured in the way we thought he was. It turns out, after a careful examination of his mouth, he has a split tooth. His teeth aren't overgrown or any such thing, but he split one of his front teeth to the gum anyway, so now he can't properly chew. This usually only happens when a rabbit has overgrown teeth, something we watch for with this rabbit constantly. We don't have the problem with the other rabbits, the greens seem to file most of their teeth nicely. There seems to be nothing wrong with his back and he is now gaining strength and walking, as we are getting him to gain some weight, but it will still take time. As he is my associate's rabbit, I have urged her to take him to the veterinarian to have the offending tooth removed, but she has, of yet, refused. There is still time. We are getting him to eat and he is gaining weight and strength daily, so he is in no immediate danger. We are currently giving him a special "mash" (recipe below) to encourage him to eat more, but it will be a long, difficult journey. He still has some pain on his back, but we believe it is from some scar tissue from the mites and will heal on its own.

Split tooth Mash:

1/4 c rabbit food fines(or 1/2c rabbit food, soaked in just enough hot water to soften)

1/8c applesauce

water sufficient to dissolve rabbit food, if water has not already been added. 

Instructions:
Add all ingredients together in an open bowl. Mix thoroughly. Give to your rabbit along with plenty of clean, fresh water IN A BOWL at all times. The reason we do not use water bottles for our rabbits with injured teeth is simple. Bottles will hurt their teeth and discourage the rabbit from drinking. These rabbits need as much water as they will drink.

We seem to have a rather small problem lately. Actually, a rather large one with a very small creator. Some of our rabbits have contracted fur mites. We are treating them and have them separated from the rest of the herd, but it is still a setback to any rabbitry. I suspect the mites were hiding in the hay which was fed to our rabbits.

The three rabbits who are affected are in separate hutches from the rest and are each receiving individual attention for it. We are using almond oil with thyme essential oil added(approximately four drops/ounce) rubbed into the rabbits' fur and combing apple cider vinegar into their fur as well. One of them has had this problem previously. I believe he became reinfested from eggs the previous infestation laid on his skin, so we are being even more aggressive this time. We want no eggs left behind. Should the more natural remedies not work, which we have no reason to believe they won't as they have in the past, we will have no recourse but to take the rabbits to the veterinarian for a chemical treatment. Rabbits are delicate, so we would rather avoid chemicals if at all possible.

One of the infested rabbits is also injured. It is, I believe, his back. He seems to be recovering, however. If he were not, the only humane thing to do would be to have him euthanized. Obviously, we are saving this as a last resort, but we don't intend to breed him again. He just seems to have too many problems. We are currently looking for a Silver Fox buck to breed with our does, approximately six months to eight months of age to replace him. Our current buck will be retired from this point on. He will not be eaten.

I thought I would post an entry today about the ten things I like best about breeding and eating rabbits. It doesn't matter whether or not you agree, rabbit meat is here to stay!

 

10. They are cute and fuzzy.

 9.Small enough to feed a family without having to worry too much about waste or long-term storage 

 8.Easy to pasture should you ever encounter and emergency. Not that I believe the food supply will disintegrate any time soon, but you never know what tomorrow will bring, especially in isolated areas.

  7.Sustainable-rabbits use fewer resources than larger livestock and have a larger return per pound.

  6. Tasty and nutritious, rabbit has many health benefits, it's very lean and the flavor has been compared to chicken or beef. It can be used in nearly every recipe that calls for either.

  5.Easy to process-There are many videos on YouTube and instructions online on processing a rabbit. A person can often, with a sharp knife or scissors, process a rabbit within fifteen minutes or less.

 4.Low odor-their waste, when handled properly, has little odor.

3.Waste does not cause root burn for plants, which means it can be added directly to our garden or compost. It is also great for vermiculture.

2.They're quiet. They don't make much noise, which means they can be kept, again managed properly, in an apartment or area where animals are not allowed and nobody will ever know. Management is key for this, though!

 1. They are full of personality and are a constant source of joy for me and my family. 

I hope you enjoyed reading my reasons for breeding rabbits. Not everybody will agree with them, but, then, not everybody is suited to rabbit raising.

I would like to address some myths about rabbit and rice. It seems there is a lot of misinformation online about the subject, so I thought I would talk about it here:

Myth #1: Rice will expand in a rabbit's stomach: this stems from a myth about birds when rice is thrown at a wedding. This myth became so common that throwing rice was outlawed in some areas because of it. It is a very believable one, I will admit. It is based upon the fact that, during cooking, rice expands to double or even triple it's size. However, much more heat than a bird or a rabbit produce is needed for that effect.

Myth #2: Rice is good for rabbits: wholegrain, cooked rice could be very good for rabbits, as it is full of fiber and protein. However, most people would likely give processed rice to their bunnies and that is NOT healthy. In fact it's downright....fattening! Yes, processed rice is simply a starch without much nutrition. It's simple energy without reason, much like giving candy to a child. It may cause them to race around for a bit, but after a time, your rabbit will start to become pudgy and not be able to be active.

Myth #3: Rice is poisonous to rabbits: yes, I've heard both! Processed rice is no more poisonous than it is nutritious.

I hope this entry helps you to make a decision on what to feed your rabbit. Rather than rice, my suggestion would be rolled oats. They are nutritious and rabbits love them. Don't worry, however, if your rabbit gobbles up some of the rice you had for lunch and spilled. Unless Thumper is sensitive to rice, it likely won't hurt it

In any case, watch for rice sensitivity. It is rare, but it does happen.

I would like to discuss, today, a very serious problem that has just come to my attention. Research, or, I should say, a lack of research. Too many breeders are doing what they've always done simply because that's what they've always done. It's as though they could never improve upon their methods, and that makes us all look bad.

One example of this is the "serious" breeder who uses cedar shavings as bedding. Most individuals who own pet rabbits will tell you that cedar is highly toxic to rabbits. There are other examples, as well, but my point is that this breeder hasn't done her research and is risking the health of her very lively hood because it's "the way it's always been done."

I also know of a breeder who, despite being trained in the medical field, continues to smoke cigarettes around her rabbits. Much information has been released about the relation of smoking and animals' health, if people would only take the time to read it!

Pet bedding, which also contains toxins, antibiotics for non-bacterial infections, gripping the rabbits solely by the ears and/or back skin, we've all done something that we found out later was detrimental to our rabbits, but if you wish to be in this business, you need to continue to improve. Stagnant thinking will only lead to stagnant results. Please don't sacrifice your herd to the past. If we are to succeed, we must push on to the future.

It's been some time since I was able to post. Unfortunately, I've been busy! In fact, as of this moment, I'm on my way to the doctor's office(don't worry, I'm not driving!) With Thanksgiving approaching(tomorrow) I've had so much more on my plate than just rabbits! As have every one of you, I'm sure. It's also a very busy time in regards to rabbits. We are trying to get all of our breeding does into hutches, but at the same time, out of the winter weather.

Have you visited the store lately? We now have a large selection of gifts for the rabbit lover in your life! Be sure to see our selection of fine jewelery, toys and many other rabbit themed gifts. Got your interest? Find us here;

http://astore.amazon.com/rabbito2-20

How do you wash out those clear plastic water bottles and get them clean? If your bottles are the wide necked variety, it's not difficult at all!
What you need is a long-handled bottle brush, the kind with a handle that's narrow enough to fit into your bottle, and also a wide-bristled bottle brush(the two brushes can be the same brush, but make sure it will reach EVERY PART of the bottle!). It also helps to use bleach(or vinegar, if you want a more natural route) and, of course water!
What to do: pour about an ounce of bleach(or 4 ounces of vinegar-less if you can find undiluted!) to a bottle. Swish around bleach(or vinegar solution) add about a cup of water and let the bottle sit for several minutes.
When the bottles have sat long enough, take the long brush and start scrubbing the bottom of the inside. Then take the wider brush and brush the top of the inside, the neck and the outside. Rinse well. If desired, soak lid in same solution, or clean with pipe-cleaner. We personally soak ours. Also be sure to rinse the lids well! With the narrow-necked bottles, there's not much more you can do than to fill them with the solution and let them soak, shake and rinse and HOPE you got everything! Another reason to use wide-necked bottles. Sanitation. The solution can be used again and again, but make sure it stays pretty clean or it won't do the job. Change it when necessary. There's no right or wrong way to clean bottles, as long as they stay sanitary and a safe vessel from which to drink.
I would love to hear what YOU do to clean water bottles. Please leave your descriptions in the comment section!

I was curious what I would find if I did a search for the term "rabbit for rent." This was one of the results:

http://dulwichdivorcee.blogspot.com/2008/05/rent-rabbit.html

I was more curious than anything. I read it and started laughing. This woman wants to rent out her destructive pet rabbit to parents of children who want a pet!
There are numerous ways she can solve her problem without pimping Dill out. She could put him in a real cage with a wire bottom and a door that actually keeps him in. She could put him outside in said cage or a hutch. She could supervise him when he's outside of the cage. Or she could put him in the stewpot, which is what I think I woud have done had he been my pet! I hope you got as much enjoyment from this as I did!

I wonder if anyone would want to rent one of my rabbits. Hmmm.....

OUR STORE is back and better than ever! Newly added, a section just for organic rabbit food! Try it now and tell us what you think!
Find us here at:
B.B.'s Rabbit Supply

it seems we no longer have a store...temporarily

it seems that amazon is having issues. we may need to build a whole new store. we will let you know when it is completed. sorry for the inconvenience and thank you for your patience.

Sorry, everyone. I haven't been on for a while. I'm having a difficult time getting into my account, so I'm sending this post via email. I understand, as I've been told, that the store link is temporarily down. That is a temporary situation, which will be fixed as soon as possible. I'm very sorry for the inconvenience.

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

I sexed Cinders's bunnies today. You're not gonna believe it. I know I don't! Every one of them was a Doe! All seven! What are the chances!

Sapphire's litter will probably be sold. At least some of them might.  They are good-sized and will be sold as meat rabbits. They will be about ten dollars this time, to cover the cost of feed. We haven't figured out how to pasture them, yet. The price may go down significantly when we do because our costs will be down, although they still will probably receive pellets until they are separated from their mothers.

By the way, all of our new litters are half Silver Fox rabbit. They are good for meat and breeding, despite the problems with Ophilia's litter. In a first litter, it's common for a lot (or all) of them to die. I'm confident she'll do better next time.

If you're interested in buying a rabbit from us and breeding it, please feel free to ask for advice. We'll be happy to help!

Re:

We still have three silver fox bunnies. Amazing considering the rate of mortality they were suffering. We lost over half of the litter!
On the plus side, we do have seven meat rabbits for sale right now. We have four Bucks and three Does, two of the does being pure white. A perfect addition for your meat breeding flock! We also have seven more which will be ready in a couple of weeks. We do sell at four weeks like some other breeders do. We believe that to be cruel and unnecessesary. For the best development, bunnies should stay with their mother at least eight weeks. Give us a call if you're interested. To offset the price of feed, we are selling this litter for ten dollars, instead of five. We do not sell by the pound. Whatever rabbit you select is the one you get, no matter what the weight. Also,does are the same price as the bucks. We hope to see you soon.

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

We may lose the whole Silver Fox Rabbit litter. Since it's a first litter, it's not entirely unexpected. Sad, but not unexpected. Ophilia, the mother, is an aggressive rabbit. She was even before she had these kits. Now she's biting. She's always been treated gently, she's just always frightened.
The kits are not developed enough. They should have fur by now, but they don't. We can't help them, though, because of the doe's incredible amount of aggression. You wouldn't think a rabbit could be so violent! In fact, I have a giant bruise from the last bite (through my thick sweatshirt!)
I was hoping for the best for this litter, especially since Silver Foxes are so rare. I don't think she's producing enough milk. That or the cold is killing them off.  I'm just not sure. It's been chilly here at night, but the kits are also thinner than we care to see them. We can't feed the kits because we can't get to them without being bitten. I only hope one or two survive. We need to reestablish the breed.

Having a problem with the rabbit pasturing process. The bunnies are trampling the greens almost as fast as they're eating them and they won't eat the greens when they're flattened. I'm thinking of trying runners on the pens instead of the traditional cage bottom to keep the greens from being trampled. We're always improvising. We pretty much have to! Since we're pretty new to the pasturing process, it's mostly all a learning curve. I'll let you know when I have a solution. 

Give us a holler if you've solved this dilemma or have a great idea how. Please nothing that costs too much (most of us who raise and pasture rabbits aren't rich) or is too complicated. We'd love to hear your success stories!

Here are some tips for those who are considering breeding their rabbit. Always check with a rabbit expert or vet before breeding. These are just general tips. It's always best to get the advice of a knowledgeable expert you know personally.

-Always place the female in with the male-that way he doesn't feel the need to mark the female's cage instead of breeding.

-Watch your rabbits-it sounds perverted, I know, but it's the only way to avoid aggression. You're there to stop your rabbits from hurting each other. Never leave them alone together overnight.

-DO NOT USE the alternate marbling method to check if your doe's pregnant. That is to say, DO NOT put your doe back in with the buck to see if she refuses him when she's almost due. Rabbits can get pregnant again while still pregnant, which is usually fatal to the next litter of bunnies due to malnutrition.

-Death is always possible with any litter, especially your doe's first one. It's also possible to lose you doe. If your rabbit's a pet, you should definitely consider NOT breeding her!

-Make sure the new bunnies are plenty warm the first few nights. The newer they are, the more delicate they are. After the first week, the chances of fatalities decrease significantly.

Good Luck!

We lost another kit today. This time a Silver Fox, the breed we're trying to help bring back from the brink of extinction. Life and death, life and death. It's all part of breeding any animal. If you can't handle death, you shouldn't be breeding. It's sad. This was a first litter. The mother rejected the kit. I wonder if there was something wrong with it. It was fat, not thin, like most bunnies which aren't eating. By the time we realized it wasn't getting fed and I brought it in to bottle feed, it may have been too late. Still, six survivors out of seven isn't bad. We've lost whole litters before, first and second. I just wish I could've saved it, that's all.

Today, I'd like to address a little common misconception about rabbit pellets. The kind that go in, not out!

It's believed pellets were developed for the meat rabbit breeders to fatten up the rabbits. Believe me, the last thing rabbit meat breeders want is fat rabbits! I don't know who started this, but it's unlikely at best. Rabbits are at their best and healthiest when lean. Fat doesn't even come into question, since it comes off when the skin does. In fact, it's extremely undesirable, seeing as it makes the rabbits unhealthy and harder to butcher. Pellets are for convenience, not to put on weight. Like most convenience foods (i.e. junk food), convenience comes with a price. Not that I'm telling you not to give your rabbits pellets, I'm simply saying that they need more than JUST pellets! Adding lots of greens to their diet will make them lean, mean hopping machines.

The pet industry does more for fattening the rabbits than the meat industry ever could. They're the ones who sell the sugar-laden "treats" people like so much to give to their pets. Those "treats" REALLY pack on the pounds!

It's possible, however, that some rabbits are fattened up to sell by the more unscrupulous breeders, since rabbits, like all meat animals, are sold by the pound, whereas we sell ours by the rabbit as bunnies. We don't know what other breeders do, just what we do, and we do our best to keep ours at a healthy weight.

So, next time you go to pick up a bag of pellets, ask yourself, why am I buying what is, basically, a convenience food for my rabbit. Is there a healthier way?

And stop blaming us for YOUR fat rabbit!